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Ive been noticing that the oil life indicator on the jeep seems on pace for about a 4000 mile oil change. This will be the first oil change. With oil changes on the diesel costing upwards of $100 i was a little concerned about that every 3000 miles as with every gas engine I've had I've done until they started telling me when to change the oil. I was told at time of purchase and by others that own diesel vehicles that oil changes would be farther between... Like 7000-10000 miles. Seems like that was either a lie or its a matter of engine break in. So I'm curious what others have had for mileage of their first and subsequent oil changes?

Thanks.
 

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From what I've been hearing, oil life has been varying considerably on the diesel. Some people are getting the oil life indicator at as little as 2-3000 miles, others upwards of 7-8000 miles. Personally, I don't trust these computerized oil life reminders and I change mine between 3-4000 miles like I've done on every other vehicle I've owned.

On a gas engine that's not such a big deal. On a diesel, frequent oil changes can wrack up quite a bill over a year. I'd go with whatever you're comfortable with as well as not exceeding the mileage specified in the owner's manual.
 

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I have 63% of oil life left...... 60 hours of operation..... and 1400 miles on the odometer. At that rate I will only get 4200 miles before I need an oil change. I'm O.K with that because it's the first one. Not so much for the second one and so on....If it were a gas engine I would have changed it at 1000 and gone to synthetic then every 10000 whether it needed it or not. I still think its about the hours and not the miles. This winter was hard and resulted in a lot of Idling...... more warming up than moving. I think that once I get on the highway and moving I will double oil life..... but I believe you would have to live in a warm climate and do 95% of you driving on the highway at 60 plus in order to get 10000 on an oil change. It's another example of misleading marketing as fr as I am concerned.
 

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2000 miles with mostly highway driving in Southern Ca. Oil life at 78%
so if you could eliminate those pesky on and of ramps and avoid 200 car pile ups you will get close to 10,000. If you have not reset either A or B trip meters one of them might show total hours. I'm guessing about 22. I'm also thinking your DEF usage is on track.
 

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Our oil is at about 45% after 4000 miles of mostly easy and flat highway driving. I don't know if I would be comfortable going over 6000 miles or so anyway. My father, who was an excellent mechanic -- long before computers -- always said "oil is cheaper than engines". Hard to teach an old dog new tricks. I REALLY like driving this car, despite minor annoyances like having the radio come back on whenever I start the car.
 

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Our oil is at about 45% after 4000 miles of mostly easy and flat highway driving. I don't know if I would be comfortable going over 6000 miles or so anyway. My father, who was an excellent mechanic -- long before computers -- always said "oil is cheaper than engines". Hard to teach an old dog new tricks. I REALLY like driving this car, despite minor annoyances like having the radio come back on whenever I start the car.
I enjoy driving mine... I turn the radio all the way down.....
 

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I use synthetic in all my vehicles..... so its a few more quarts and and perhaps the filter cost a little more. But the frequency seems about the same and it would only be fare to deduct the price of at least a 30 dollar change. Even with a 10.00 coupon a synthetic at Jiffy or Valvoline is in the 60.00 range. And that's with 5 quarts.
 

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My dealer said to drive it it tells you to get it done.. I am at 6000 miles and it shows 35% oil left... 50/50 highway/city driving.. usually 75-85 MPH on the highway.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Mine is at 43% at 2100 miles. Lots of stop and go commuting, a little towing thus far, and some highway. My commute is mostly highway but at times its stop and go traffic.
 

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I just changed mine at 3700, as it said to. Then they forgot to reset the oil timer, so it showed that the oil was at 0%, and still needed changing, which made me a little suspicious as to is it testing the oil quality or is it a timer? The oil did look pretty dark and I drive mostly city miles, so it's conceivable that I wore it out.

At the moment, it's in at the dealer because the exhaust filter filled up a week after the oil change and won't regenerate. They said if the mechanic put the wrong oil in it during the oil change it would fill up the exhaust filter immediately... At any rate, I'm finding that the diesel engine, while durable, is finicky with the exhaust/EPA req.
 

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4550 miles with 7% oil life remaining...south FL city driving mostly.
Pulled 6,000 pounds on 4 occasions...less than 300 miles total.
Check out the DEF thread...just had my first service completed.
You need 8 gallons of DEF to fill that tank...I may have to refill the DEF each oil change???
But that's another thread...
 

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What I found...

2013-up model year vehicles will be equipped with a new variable automatic oil change indicator system. Operating conditions such as frequent short-trips, trailer tow, extremely hot or cold ambient temperatures, or E85 fuel usage will influence when the "Change Oil" message is displayed indicating service is required. Severe operating conditions can cause the change oil message to illuminate AS EARLY AS 3,500 MILES SINCE THE LAST RESET.

ALWAYS CHANGE THE ENGINE OIL AND FILTER WHEN PROMPTED BY THE OIL CHANGE INDICATOR SYSTEM AND UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD OIL CHANGE INTERVALS EXCEED 10,000 MILES OR TWELVE MONTHS, WHICHEVER COMES FIRST (6,000 MILES/6 MO. FOR SRT VEHICLES).
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How to reset the oil service indicator

The oil change indicator can be reset using the following steps:

A. Vehicles without push-button start:

1. Turn the ignition key to ON but do not start the engine.
2. Slowly depress the accelerator to the floor and release it three times within 10 seconds.
3. Turn the ignition key to the OFF position.

B. Vehicles with push-button start:

1. Without pressing the brake pedal, press the ENGINE START/STOP button and cycle the ignition to the ON/ RUN position (Do not start the engine).
2. Slowly depress the accelerator to the floor and release it three times within 10 seconds.
3. Without pressing the brake pedal, press the ENGINE START/STOP button once to return the ignition to the OFF/LOCK position.
[/SIZE]
 

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There is a TSB out for the oil life monitor to update the software on the 3.0L diesel for owners experiencing faster than expected oil life deterioration. I'm going to have them do the update when I go in for my first oil change soon. TSB# 18-018-14 Rev. B
 

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Another thing to keep in mind is that the number of regens (of the DPF) will affect oil life too. I believe these motors use a post-injection (injecting fuel into the cylinders on the exhaust stroke) regen strategy which will cause dilution of the oil.
 

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I was wondering how they did that.....you know heat the exhaust... allowing fuel to finish burning in the manifold would definitely do that. Makes sense. Kind of like a self cleaning oven. Even the smell makes sense.... road dirt with a higher burn point that collects on the exhaust would burn during regen. The more urban the area or the more exotic the residues the stronger the odor.
Another thing to keep in mind is that the number of regens (of the DPF) will affect oil life too. I believe these motors use a post-injection (injecting fuel into the cylinders on the exhaust stroke) regen strategy which will cause dilution of the oil.
 

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I was wondering how they did that.....you know heat the exhaust... allowing fuel to finish burning in the manifold would definitely do that. Makes sense. Kind of like a self cleaning oven. Even the smell makes sense.... road dirt with a higher burn point that collects on the exhaust would burn during regen. The more urban the area or the more exotic the residues the stronger the odor.
Yes, the other way to do it is with an extra fuel injector in the exhaust. This is the approach that GM uses on the Duramax (I have one). Everyone else does post injection. I remember reading about some research underway a couple of years ago about an electrically heated DPF but haven't heard much about it since. Regardless of approach, the exhaust gets VERY hot during a regen (well over 1000 degrees F) so caution is advised when parking over anything flammable or towing trailers with any sort of plastic trim on the front.

I'm hoping to order a GC Ecodiesel this fall so I'm just here to learn about others' experiences with them in the interim.
 

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That explains why highway and speed...... Safety.......I only have 1500 miles on mine.... I have seen nothing as of yet to make me think I made a mistake. Time will tell.
 

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I just changed mine at 3700, as it said to. Then they forgot to reset the oil timer, so it showed that the oil was at 0%, and still needed changing, which made me a little suspicious as to is it testing the oil quality or is it a timer? The oil did look pretty dark and I drive mostly city miles, so it's conceivable that I wore it out.

At the moment, it's in at the dealer because the exhaust filter filled up a week after the oil change and won't regenerate. They said if the mechanic put the wrong oil in it during the oil change it would fill up the exhaust filter immediately... At any rate, I'm finding that the diesel engine, while durable, is finicky with the exhaust/EPA req.
Quick question. What prompted you to go back to the dealer regarding the non regeneration? I just got my oil changed, and have driven less than 55 miles over 2 days and the MIL just lit up. Did that happen to you, or a different warning lamp? I can't say that I'm happy to see the MIL after just having the Jeep in for the oil change (and some software updates)
 

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my first oil change was at 7800 miles. on my second it looks like I will hit 10k but we did take a 3000 mile hwy trip. The DEF looks like it will make it 10k too. On the first oil change the DEF wasn't completely filled by the dealer when we bought it so it was hard to say
 
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