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Just got my first oil change done yesterday, and about fell over when I looked at the receipt and saw it was $177. How long can I expect to go between full synthetic oil changes? Also is it wise to just change it myself going forward and save a couple bucks? How will this affect my warranty if I change my own oil?
 

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I am at almost 7000 miles and it still says 25% oil life. I was told be my dealer that I don't need to get it done until the "light comes on".. basically once its close to 0% left. I was lucky.. my dealer gave me the first 4 oil changes free.. its a Mopar deal, I would check and see if you got that.
 

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Recently did ours at 4550 miles with 7% oil life remaining.
Same reaction...expected 8 quarts of oil, maybe 1-2 gallons of DEF, rotated tires and filled with Nitorgen.
However, the DEF tank holds 8 gallons.

Used one of my 4 "free" oil changes. Dealer is reimbursed up to $100. They said the new oil filter is $60 MSP...only charged me $43.
THAT'S an expensive oil filter.
 

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Just had mine done today at 5300 miles and 7% oil life remaining.
Be aware that there is a Service Bulletin 18-018-14 Rev B for a software update (flash PCM)
that corrects a condition for faster than expected oil life deterioration on vehicles built before
04/05/2014. Some of the dealer stock units that were in inventory March 21 may have had this
update done already. Check with your dealer to see if it was performed.
 

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How you guys feel using 5W-30? I have big concern if it's going to hold all the stress that is been exposed in this engine. All European car makers have been recommending 0W-40 (not really available in LOW ASH formula) or 5W-40 for their turbo engines or high performance engines. I am debating if I should switch to higher weight. I know most of this is part of the CAFE crap we have been exposed to, but why sacrificing engine longevity when car already beets the gasoline couterparts in fuel efficiency by big margin.
 

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It has absolutely nothing to do with CAFE. They run 5W-30 in this globally. The Aussies have been running that weight for a long time plus the reason LOW ASH is required is DPF which is also Global not CAFE.

I am pretty sure as this is the same block running in multiple Maserati's that are not available here, that I would trust the rating. I mean hey if you want to use Mobil 1 ESP instead of the Pennzoil, that is awesome, but considering the design, I would stick with what is recommended.
 

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It has absolutely nothing to do with CAFE. They run 5W-30 in this globally. The Aussies have been running that weight for a long time plus the reason LOW ASH is required is DPF which is also Global not CAFE.

I am pretty sure as this is the same block running in multiple Maserati's that are not available here, that I would trust the rating. I mean hey if you want to use Mobil 1 ESP instead of the Pennzoil, that is awesome, but considering the design, I would stick with what is recommended.
I know about LOW SPAsh and DPF poisoning but the way they presented it is like you do not have choice - use Chrysler oil (relabeled Pennzoil probably) or Pennzoil Ultra Euro 5W-30 (good luck finding it). I can assure you that the oil weight makes difference on fuel economy unless you run dry sump. I will not use Mobil 1, but I would prefer Pento High Performance II 5W-40, maybe I am old school but I like little extra piece of mind.
For you info you can check this spec sheet and find many more oils that are LOW SPAsh just like Pennzoil (which is included in it).

http://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolistenmain.php?navigation_path=bevolisten&blatt=229.51&content_action=show
 

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I don't disagree with where you are coming from. I had a Mercedes ML320 Diesel that I traded on the Jeep and their was only one oil they would run. It is not like they would ever let you change the weight rating on the oil. You had to comply with the Mercedes Spec as well as the weight Rating... I mean it isn't like they can run 229.51 in any weight rating you want on the BlueTec

Presently the only 2 oils that are certified against MS-11106 TMK are the Mobil 1 and the Pennzoil. I know for sure the Pennzoil is not a Chrysler "re-brand" or mopar related. The related specs are all VM Motori so it really isn't a north American thing at all. However because I refuse to spend $200.00 on oil changes I do know a few places to get the Pennzoil.

Amazon (Subscribe to regular delivery for under $40.00 a case)
http://www.amazon.com/Pennzoil-550023013-6PK-Ultra-5W-30-Synthetic/dp/B006A49J02/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1400335411&sr=8-1&keywords=pennzoil euro l 5w30

If you live in the Chicago area and or maybe don't like Amazon (around $200 for a case of 24 works out nicely to 3 oil changes)
http://www.kellerheartt.com/
 

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I don't disagree with where you are coming from. I had a Mercedes ML320 Diesel that I traded on the Jeep and their was only one oil they would run. It is not like they would ever let you change the weight rating on the oil. You had to comply with the Mercedes Spec as well as the weight Rating... I mean it isn't like they can run 229.51 in any weight rating you want on the BlueTec
Off course they can because they do it in EU, but here in USA I think is done this way to protect them from been sued by people who neglect their cars.
 

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Off course they can because they do it in EU, but here in USA I think is done this way to protect them from been sued by people who neglect their cars.
Well I am not sure that I can say they don't use what they are told in the EU? I have worked in Germany, Denmark and Sweden. You run what they tell you to there, no different then here, you have engine issues, they want to see all the receipts if you didn't do it at the dealer.
 

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Well I am not sure that I can say they don't use what they are told in the EU? I have worked in Germany, Denmark and Sweden. You run what they tell you to there, no different then here, you have engine issues, they want to see all the receipts if you didn't do it at the dealer.
I meant 5w-40 vs 5w-30, not oil that is not approved. I think they left small back door - ACEA C3 oil can be used.

And is getting confusing because manual says we can use also Fiat 9.55535-S1 approved oils which corresponds to ACEA C2 in this case.

http://www.motul.com/system/product_descriptions/technical_data_sheets/61176/original/Specific_S1_5W-30_(GB).pdf?1359042616

or:

POWER TRAIN TECHNOLOGIES/ FIAT GROUP QUALIFICATIONS
FIAT 9.55535-G1Qualification for gasoline engine lubricants granting fuel economy and extended drain
FIAT 9.55535-G2Qualification for gasoline engine lubricants with standard characteristics.
FIAT 9.55535-H2Qualification for gasoline engine lubricants, granting high performances and high viscosity at high temperatures
FIAT 9.55535-H3Qualification for gasoline engine lubricants granting very high performances.
FIAT 9.55535-D2Qualification for Diesel engine lubricants with standard characteristics.
FIAT 9.55535-M2Qualification for lubricants with extended drain
FIAT 9.55535-N2Qualification for lubricants with a very good characteristics for turbocharged engines, Diesel and gasoline, with extended drain.
FIAT 9.55535-S1Qualification for Diesel and gasoline engine, with exhaust treatment system, lubricants, granting fuel economy and extended drain.
FIAT 9.55535-S2Qualification for Diesel and gasoline engine, with exhaust treatment system, lubricants, with extended drain..


These qualifications define the characteristics to be complied with by the lubricants used in engines with Otto and Diesel cycle for the first time of filling and during service. The standard is formed of a series of tests in the laboratory and on the engine to assess the performance level of lubricants.
The laboratory tests qualify the lubricant evaluating the viscosity, cold yield value, tendency to produce foam, corrosion on copper reed, behaviour with rubbers and resistance to oxidisation.
The engine tests assess the performance levels of lubricants in terms of sticking rings, deposits on pistons, wear and also oil consumption of certain diesel and petrol engines which are the most representative of Fiat Auto’s most advanced technologies.
 

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Ya, I don't know if the Fiat stuff is applicable here. According the chart, this is what it says for North America

"SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Low Ash Engine Oil meeting the requirements of Chrysler Material Standard MS- 11106 and approved ACEA C3"

So the ACEA C3 is an and not an or... Also I have to think the weight rating is part of the material spec? I am not saying you do not have valid points just interested in doing what is right and I am not sure the heavier weight is going to help if the engine was designed for 5w30?
 

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Ya, I don't know if the Fiat stuff is applicable here. According the chart, this is what it says for North America

"SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Low Ash Engine Oil meeting the requirements of Chrysler Material Standard MS- 11106 and approved ACEA C3"

So the ACEA C3 is an and not an or... Also I have to think the weight rating is part of the material spec? I am not saying you do not have valid points just interested in doing what is right and I am not sure the heavier weight is going to help if the engine was designed for 5w30?
Fiat spec are mentioned in the manual.
 

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Just got my first oil change done yesterday, and about fell over when I looked at the receipt and saw it was $177. How long can I expect to go between full synthetic oil changes? Also is it wise to just change it myself going forward and save a couple bucks? How will this affect my warranty if I change my own oil?
I have driven my 2008 Overland Diesel 100k miles. I change the oil w/Mobil One every 10K miles. Sears charges $109. Thats a penny a mile. My Subaru Outback I change every 3 -4K miles w/non synthetic oil. Sears charges $32. Thats a penny a mile. The oil filter is not easily accessible w/o a lift, and 10 quarts of oil makes a huge mess if you don't have an adequate catch basin.
 

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I know about LOW SPAsh and DPF poisoning but the way they presented it is like you do not have choice - use Chrysler oil (relabeled Pennzoil probably) or Pennzoil Ultra Euro 5W-30 (good luck finding it). I can assure you that the oil weight makes difference on fuel economy unless you run dry sump. I will not use Mobil 1, but I would prefer Pento High Performance II 5W-40, maybe I am old school but I like little extra piece of mind.
For you info you can check this spec sheet and find many more oils that are LOW SPAsh just like Pennzoil (which is included in it).

http://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolistenmain.php?navigation_path=bevolisten&blatt=229.51&content_action=show
Use Mobil One or any other full synthetic. It lasts 10K miles.
 

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Hi, urgently need your help, I recently bought a Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0 diesel. The car was brought from America, mileage was about 141 miles, the first time the computer started to warn about replacing the engine oil at 2,000 km, the second time at 3000 miles, and now I have traveled 500 km, and the computer again shows that already has 80 percent to oil change, and it will do again about 3,000 km. But it's not normal to change the oil every 3000 miles, please help, what should I do?

And one problem when I first got into the car, it was all in miles, I changed the mile per km, and since then, and led, recently decided to again change per mile, but it was not there, replaced only a speedometer and the total mileage cars remained in the mileage as you think what is the reason and what can I do?

P.S. drove the car in service, diagnostics revealed no problems.
 
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